Gatsby
Tips


Dressing for the Gatsby

These guidelines are designed to take you beyond the dreaded Gatsby don'ts --those blatantly modern styles that spoil the Gatsby magic! --and into the fabulous world of dressing up deco. For more fashion guidance, order our charming and informative new "How to Gatsby" booklet, available for $6 including postage from ADSC. Email Zelda for details.

Gatsby Dress for Women: 1920s

Do's

Don'ts

  • Dropped Waist
  • Light,soft natural fabrics (silk, georgette, chiffon)
  • Hem just below knee (longer for early '20s)
  • Soft colors, pastels, muted prints

  • Evening wear, beaded gowns
  • Polyester -- you'll roast!
  • The "Untouchables" look -- fringed poly shift & feather boa
  • Miniskirts

  • Cloche or cloche brim hat

  • Sequined headband

  • Seamed hose, tights
  • Hose rolled at knee

  • Fishnets, jet black hose
  • Neat grooming
  • Bra straps showing

  • Accessories: shawls, clutch bag, parasols, wrapped head scarves
  • Cell phones, water bottles

  • Shoes: Lower heeled pumps, louis heels, small straps
  • Try a "jazz shoe" in beige from a dance shop
  • TIP: Don't ruin your vintage shoes on the lawn; bring modern backups for walking
  • Sandals, bare legs
  • Spike heels, pointed toes
  • Fat rubber wide soles

  • Long hair: pulled back into knot at neck, marcelled into waves around face
  • Shorter hair: curled like Clara Bow, or straight bob with bangs

  • Long flowing hair was for little girls only
  • Perky Meg Ryan flips

Dress for time of day

During the 1920s, '30s and '40s there were clothes for specific times of the day, and specific rules for seasons. Dress rules were observed by nearly everyone; exceptions (artists, anarchists, intellectuals, or shocking debutantes) were remarked upon.

Etiquette books described appropriate dress for business, travel, church, shopping, tea, garden party, dinner, theater, opera or balls. (The Gatsby falls into the "garden party" category, much like an elegant garden wedding nowadays.)

Men wore brown shoes for day only; two-toned shoes could appear in summer. Straw hats were appropriate for men and women on summer days. Beaded gowns, jewelled cloches and tuxedos came out after dark.

In the East, men's straw hats were worn only between Memorial Day and Labor Day, but since California was considered a resort destination, they are appropriate during our summer-like weather in September. (That's our story, and we're sticking to it.)

Glasses

Round frames (horn rims or metal) were worn men and women. Look for round or oval shapes in sunglasses; avoid the cats-eye, wrap-arounds or modern shapes.

The Gatsby Man

We love Gatsby men! Think dapper: Fred Astaire, Cary Grant, Gary Cooper and William Powell. Think classic stores like Cable Car Clothiers or Brooks Brothers.

Do's

Don'ts

  • Small tidy moustaches
  • Short sideburns
  • Tidily combed hair
  • Long hair? Pull it back neatly
  • Beards trimmed, not scraggly
  • Straw hat: boater or panama
  • Flat cap with brim a more sporting look
  • Styrofoam boater
  • Shirts: long sleeved, plain or colored, simple striped, french cuffs or plain
  • Short sleeved shirts
  • Logo, printed shirts
  • Shirts tails out
  • Rolled-up sleeves--for the working class only
  • Ties: straight or bow, foulard, small geometric prints, rep stripes
  • Can't abide ties? try an ascot

  • No tie? No excuse.
  • String ties and bolos are not real ties

  • Pants: classic styles, light fabrics (seersucker, linen, chino) in light, neutral colors
  • Pants ride at waist, not hip
  • Bermuda shorts
  • Hip huggers
  • Obvious labels
  • Shoes: Lace-ups, could be two-toned
  • (If you have foot problems, choose a neutral, shoe-like sneaker)
  • Sneakers
  • Square toes
  • Desert boots
  • Use braces (suspenders) or a belt, not both
  • Vests are great!
  • Sweater-vests are a youthful look, more casual than a suit or jacket

  • Tip: vests look smart if you must remove your jacket in the heat

  • Jackets: single or double-breasted
  • Light summer fabrics (linen, seersucker)
  • Suits with matching pants or sport jackets

  • Tip: A gentleman may loosen his tie, but does not remove it and open his shirt collar

  • Final touch: the pocket square, neatly folded and ironed or gracefully fluffed and inserted in the jacket breast pocket

  • Discreet monograms or borders but no garish embroidery

1930s Women and Beyond:

The "Gatsby Look" favored by many women is the wide, often asymetric brimmed hat and soft, long, drapy, bias-cut gowns of 1929 through the mid-'30s. If you are a '40s gal, stick to the early '40s. Think Ingrid Bergman--subtle, natural, softly curled hair-- not Joan Crawford with padded shoulders, dramatic makeup.

Hair and Makeup Tips

1920s Jazz Baby:

  • smudgy smoky eyes
  • "bee-stung" lips with cupids bow
  • thin eye brows
  • short curly hair (Clara Bow) or smooth bob (Louise Brooks )

Long Hair?

  • Practice a wave yourself or with your hairdresser (use gel and clips)
  • Pull hair back into a low chignon or bun, so your hat fits low too

Modern Short Hair?

  • Think Clara Bow: Set it in rollers or pin curls and brush out
  • Remember, a cloche covers all

1930s Hair and Makeup:

  • Elongated, thin brows
  • Red lipstick, more natural outline
  • Avoid orange, pink, frosted or glossy lipstick
  • Use powder, avoid over-tanned bronzers
  • Hide tatoos
  • Ditch the sparkly powder, frosted eye shadow
  • Beautiful matte skin in your own color!
  • Nails--oval or slightly pointed; no square cuts
  • Natural polish, red for '30s
  • Leave "moons" bare if you dare!

Advanced Looks: Not for first-timers

If you've been to Gatsby before, have the look down, can do a finger wave, then you might be ready for something daring ... the '20s boyish look, or a wonderful deco dandy, or all-out Chinoiserie. Gents might consider "plus fours" with smashing knee socks and cap.

If it's your first time: heed our "dos and don't" when you plan your outfit -- then relax and have a marvelous time at The Gatsby. Don't spend your afternoon fretting about mistakes in other's attire, when there is so much to see and do and enjoy. Take mental notes for what you can do next year!

Major Don'ts: We have people at the gate to deal with those few unfortunate souls who turn up in unabashed contemporary wear: jeans and t-shirts, athetic shoes, shorts, baseball caps, flip-flops, short-sleeved open-necked shirts on men or modern pantsuits on women. Our Costume Closet offers emergency rental assistance.

Although we admire perfection, we should never offer free-lance criticism of what others are wearing. They are doing their best. This was a faux pas 75 years ago, and it's still bad manners today. Admiration, on the other hand, is cheerfully accepted!

THANKS: To Kimberly Manning Aker, who organinized these tips and numerous Getting Ready for Gatsby fashion shows. See photos of the 2004 show in our Rotogravure! Note: The models came out in four groups: the first in complete vintage, the second and third in reproduction or purchased attire. The final group showed the "advanced" looks -- deco dandy and chinoiserie. Thanks to Pat Phillips for on-the-spot snapshots!